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let's get political 

activism through fashion

What is fashion activism?

In short fashion activism is using fashion and beauty to advocate for social change, many people use clothes, makeup, hairstyles to make a statement, fashion activism just means that the statement is politically motivated. 

If you've not listen to the most recent Girls Night In episode make sure you do, we will be discussing the topic of activism through fashion and diving into the impact its had on the fashion industry and our society!

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Designers who use fashion to make a political statement

Vivienne Westwood 

Vivienne Westwood is one of the most legendary designers, she sadly passed away at 81 in 2022 and it hugely impacted not just the fashion industry but the world, many people were inspired by Westwood's fashion designs and outspokenness on political and social issues. Vivienne Westwood used her platform to campaign for a better and more sustainable world, she spoke out about the effects of climate change, over-consumption and critiqued capitalism. Over the last 20 years, she supported hundreds of cases that she believed would have a positive impact on our society, she also launched her own campaign movement Climate Revolution, as well as being a Greenpeace ambassador. 

 

There were many times Westwood used her fashion designs to send a political statement, for example, in 2014 Westwood sent models down the catwalk of her Red Label SS15 show wearing ‘YES’ badges in support of Scottish independence. After the show, she proudly told The Independent, “I hate England. I like Scotland because somehow I think they are better than we are. They are more democratic.”

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Another one of Westwoods most legendary designs was the “I AM NOT A TERRORIST, please don’t arrest me” t-shirts, all profits went to charity and the clothes were a collaboration with the civil rights group Liberty. The t-shirts were involved in a bid to confront the government's proposed anti-terror legislation. 

 

The incredible thing about Vivienne Westwood was she was never scared to speak out on what she believed in and was happy to risk everything to support causes she thought were worth fighting for. 

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Ashish Gupta 

Ashish Gupta is a fashion designer based in London, his designs are under the label ‘Ashish’. Born and raised in Delhi, he studied Fine Art in India before moving to London to complete his BA in Fashion Design. His designs have a mix of Western and Eastern influences, Gupta is an advocate for sustainable fashion, all his designs are hand-sewn by a small team in India, and all the items produced are made to order to limit waste. Gupta is known for championing diversity within the industry, queer visibility and representation are important values to him and this shines through in this work, with gender-fluid designs and though-proving runway shows. 

 

During London Fashion Week 2017, he dragged ex-US president Donald Trump with T-shirts with the slogan ‘more glitter, less Twitter’ written across the front in gemstones. Most of his designs in the collection shown that evening were politically influenced. 

Auroua James

Aurora James is an American designer, she is the Creative Director and Founder of the luxury accessories brand Brother Vellies. James started the Fifthteen Percentage pledge in 2020, a pledge that asks retailers to devote 15% of their shelf space to black-owned businesses, she is outspoken on a lot of Political issues, in 2022 she told Glamour this causes her to receive many horrible messages and even death threats however it doesn’t stop her on speaking out about issues she’s passionate about.

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Aurora James was the designer behind the Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez iconic Met Gala dress, a dress that caused an uproar on social media, the dress was a gorgeous white gown with ‘Tax the Rich’ written across the back of it in red. In an interview with the New York Times, she reflects on the dress saying “I think given what the Met Gala is, and who the congresswoman is, and what her message really always is, we felt that it was appropriate.”

Everyday fashion activism 

Fashion activism is something everyone can be involved in. Ways you can get involved are wearing clothing with statements that raise awareness for an issue you are passionate about, buying second-hand clothing to reduce buying from fast fashion brands and protecting against brands that are unethical. 

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Here are some of my favourite ethical brands that participate in fashion activism...

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Becky Kayla Designs 

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“A safe place full of body positivity, fat liberation and intersectional feminism.”  My artwork strives to celebrate beautiful fat bodies, and strong feminist messages!”  

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The Spark Company 

 

‘We’re what people call feminist killjoys, a term that we’re actually quite proud of. We’re here to put our money where our ‘loud feminist’ mouths are, creating apparel and accessories that scream feminism + equality while whispering quality + sustainability seductively (and consensually) in your ear at the same time.” 

Rainbow and Co

 

“Rainbow & Co is a Queer & Autistic owned apparel and accessories store based in Manchester, UK. Our aim is to cater for as many LGBTQIA+ identities as possible to allow our queer siblings to feel represented and celebrated. At present we design quirky, funny, and relatable tees, hoodies, mugs and more for over 40 different LGBTQIA+ identities.”

Interview with Katie Friedlander - Boss

Katie's Personal Statement 

- from the Bath spa university page 

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"Katie has been a lecturer for nine years in a variety of institutions, including Conde Nast College of Art and Design, London College of Fashion and Westminster University.

She specialises in Fashion Marketing, with industry experience for multi-chain fashion brands in visual merchandising. With a research background in retail design and experiential marketing, Katie won a Purple Apple Retail Award for her MA retail design concept.

More recently, Katie has worked with her partner as a consultant for start-up fashion brands, taking them through the design, sourcing and marketing process, ready for launch. She also advises on brand alignment for ethical and sustainable fashion brands."

 So first of all, what's your opinion on fashion and activism? Going hand in hand, do you think they should be able to share a space or do you think the two should be kept separate?

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 I think that that's a question of audiences. However, the reality is yes, fashion and activism work together. People have been doing it for years like Catherine Ham with her slogan t-shirts. The more important it is that you use the platform to raise awareness. However, the mindset it's about audiences is. You also have to be really careful because if you push a message too hard to the wrong person in the wrong place, it's going to stop them from wanting to do anything.

 

So this is why it's really important to be aware of what you're doing and how you are doing it, and who you are saying those things because some people can afford to have the time and energy to go, yes, I'm gonna be an activist and I'm gonna do these things. Whereas if you have no money, no food, no time, but you do have to go out and you know, we've all got lives and you've gotta go to a wedding.

 

You've gotta buy a dress. If someone, you know the Primark conversation you put that conversation in the Primark space, if that makes sense. I shouldn't be being activist. It's, but also if you're Primark and you're being an activist about, you know, ethical fashion manufacturer, you are also, um, lying.

 

So it's, you've got, that's the other thing about who you are as a brand. You have to be able to say it.

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What’s your opinion on companies ‘rebranding’ as more sustainable to target a more buying-conscious consumer? 

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So there's a lot happening behind the scenes. So legally what's happening is that because everything's happening in policy and legislation, all brands have to prove that they are functioning as to what the government says is a sustainable, uh, way of functioning in relation to using transparency in all of those things.

 

So legally, they are meeting the base requirements of what the government says a sustainable brand is. However, that version and that word sustainable is really difficult because it means a lot of different things to a lot of different people. So what the government said is sustainable is sustainable.

 

This is where it becomes really, really, tricky because brands can say and remarket themselves as sustainable. They're not compared to a more sustainable brand. However, they are following the basic government-based guidelines.

 

So we are moving into, um, a circular economy as a country. This means every brand has to be able to prove that they are circular in some way or another. And again, a circular economy is really complicated because it can mean different things to different people. You can be circular in that you are getting all of your clothes back at the end and turning them into new things. Or you can be circular in that what you're using at the starting point. So your original natural fabrics are circular, so. There's no continuity or consistency anywhere, which is what leads to huge misunderstandings and misconceptions. Uh, and even within companies, brands themselves, if you're a big fashion brand, won't know what areas of your business, so a designer is so far removed from the market.

 

There are a lot of unintentional conversations happening and a lot of misunderstandings happening even within companies. It's a really tricky space for lots of people right now, so it's not an easy answer because I don't think it's right that brands advertise themselves as sustainable and ethical and they're not.

 

However, they are doing what they are allowed to do and should be doing, and as long as they're making an effort, then it, it's not necessarily their fault. I think anyone doing something in the right direction has to be good.

 

 

This question comes in two parts.

So firstly, what's your thoughts on celebrities and influential people using their fashion as a political statement? 

And almost leading on from that, what's your thoughts on celebrities using the Met Gala? To make a political statement for example, AOC, when she wore the tax the rich dress.

 

It is a tricky one cuz the reality is it depends on who the celebrity is and what is they're saying. and do they align with what you believe is right.  So, The short answer is yes. It's fantastic that celebrities and influencers use their platform to make important statements.

 

Yeah, so it's definitely a good thing. However, when Kourtney does and brand deal with boohoo and says that everything is ethical and it's great. People believed her. Consumers believed her. Shoppers believed her because they want to believe in what she says is true.

 

And again, Kourtney wasn't saying anything. Legally untrue but what’s it also did is it empowered shoppers of a specific age and demographic to keep shopping in that way. And there was a really interesting fallout of that.

 

What you have to remember is that Instagram, Twitter, all of those. We make our stories, we build our personal narratives using those, which means that if you tell somebody that Kourtney's a liar, they believe in Kourtney so much that you are basically accusing them of being a liar and being stupid. So it creates this really adverse reaction.

 

Coming back to the MET Gala, the Tax the Rich dress. It’s an irony because she's at the MET Gala. However the Met Gala, for example, most people don't buy their dresses. They're all loaned by fashion houses. Actually, your stylists will work for months with the fashion house to develop your dress and to work on the jewellery.  So money doesn't really change hands.

 

So you can get there, especially if you've been. Wear everything and you don't pay a penny to go. However, you do have to be a certain sort of person to be invited to the MET Gala. Um, so again, I think it's really interesting. Well, I think it's really interesting is at least the conversation it sparks.

 

Do you have any fashion designers you admire for their political stance or for going against the fashion norm to shed light on an issue?

 

So I worked at Vivienne Westwood, that was my first job when I graduated. Genuinely like, had a bit of a cry when she passed away. Because she taught me how to like hand sew, I will always be very proud to have worked there. What she represented and how she did it because she never lost her sense of true identity, she was always about challenging standards. I've always, always really admired her and what she does and how she uses her voice and her platform to raise issues. Um, I think there are amazing smaller companies like Teemill, and Rapanui who are doing what they can and tiny brands like yes friends who are using their platform.

 

Catherine Hamlet’s T-shirts are amazing, I really respect what she's doing and how she's gone about doing it because it's similar to Vivienne Westwood but obviously stylistically completely different. 

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